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Saturday, January 26, 2013

Review of Lombardi's Coal Oven Pizza, 32 Spring St., New York, NY


 Overall Rating: Very Good to Excellent (***) ($ 1/2)









Pizza type: First Generation Neapolitan

Pizza ordered: Sausage, Tomato, Basil

Crust: The crust on the Lombardi's pie was very good.  Although it was not as thin or crispy as I expected, the crust displayed just the right amount of chewiness and firmness around the edges, with a wonderful smokey flavor from the coal oven charring.

Sauce: Lombardi's sauce was excellent.  It was distributed liberally enough on the pie as not to allow the pizza to have dry spots, and the flavor was very well balanced.  The sauce is a fairly neutral crushed tomato sauce that compliments the other flavors of the pie without being overly sweet or displaying out-of-balance spices or saltiness.  It was slightly more acidic than I personally prefer.

Cheese: Although Lombardi's does not use mozzarella di bufala, as you would find on a true Neapolitan pie, they do use a fresh mozzarella.  I found their cheese to be nicely textured and mildly flavored, without any sour or greasy overtones.    It was a bit sparsely applied, but then again, I've often pointed out that too liberal application of cheese can overpower and weight a pizza down.  It's a fine line!

Other Topping(s): The basil on this pie was very fresh and present in most bites.  I would have liked a bit more on the pie.

The sausage was mildly spiced with no fatty after-taste.  It complimented the pie without standing out too much.  Again, as with the basil, I would have preferred it a bit more evenly distributed over the pizza, and I would have preferred a bit more spice.

Atmosphere: I could write pages on the history of Lombardi's, as it holds an important place in the history of pizza's evolution in New York City.  Their website, http://firstpizza.com, offers some information on that, and there is much additional information on the web.  If you are a true pizza enthusiast, the history of New York's pizza heavy-hitters is fascinating.
 
Service: Exceptional table service from a very friendly staff.  I was delighted to be able to have a 15- minute conversation about New York's pizza history with the manager, followed by a guided tour of the kitchen and coal fired oven area.  We were there on a Thursday evening around 6:30 p.m. and had no problem getting a table.   Customers started streaming in around 7:30!
 
Utensils: Sturdy tableware and high quality napkins.  

Overall: I classify Lombardi's as "First-Generation" Neapolitan.  Specifically, one of the standout pizzerias that produces some of the best pizza, in New York style, as evolved from its Neapolitan roots.  Lombardi's, no doubt, holds its own with Grimaldi's, the original Patsy's in East Harlem and Di Fara in Brooklyn.  This is not pizza tailored to popular tastes; it is pizza that holds to a very proud heritage.

If you are a pizza lover, you must try Lombardi's when in NYC...a true New York pizza and a bit of history!
 
Reservations: N/A

Payment: Cash Only (ATM on-site)