Review of Antico, Atlanta, Ga, September 2010

Antico (****) ($$)
1093 Hemphill Ave. NW
Atlanta, Ga

To find a pizzeria that prepares an authentic Neapolitan pizza, the direct ancestor of our very popular New York style pizza here in the United States, is the equivalent of any other hobbyist making that rare find. I recently discovered such a pie at Antico in midtown Atlanta, Georgia. In their “open” kitchen, the pizza bakers at Antico follow traditional preparation methods using prime ingredients, and the results are outstanding.

Some of the requirements for an authentic Neapolitan pizza include the use of mozzarella di bufula (mozzarella cheese made from water buffalo or yaks’ milk); soft-grained flour, water, fresh yeast and sea salt may be used for the dough; plum tomatoes, extra-virgin olive oil; fresh or dried oregano for toppings and fresh garlic only on the pizza marinara. Neapolitan pizza must be baked in a wood burning oven at approximately 850 ° F, giving the crust its unique flatbread texture and smoky essence. Most American pizza establishments use a gas oven at around 550º F.

Does Antico hit the mark of authentic Neapolitan pie? Absolutely! I ordered the classic margarita pizza topped with tomato, basil and mozzarella di bufula. The crust was perfectly charred, at around 900 ˚ F, revealing hints of the hardwood fire, brick oven and the hardwood smoke without any burned flavor. This is very important because in an 850˚ to 900˚ F oven, the line between nicely charred and burned can be thin, and close attention of the baker is required to produce the desired “charred” crust. The crust also displayed a hint of crispiness and yet was pliable enough to roll the slice as you eat it. I really couldn’t identify a single flaw in the Antico crust, with the possible exception of it being slightly thick on the edges, but that is strictly a matter of taste, because some like to have that thicker piece of crust left to eat with olive oil.

The hand selected, crushed plum tomatoes distributed about the crust were fresh, hand-selected and made for a more subtle topping than common pizza sauce; no strong saucy flavor, at all! The tomatoes were complimented by fresh picked, tender basil distributed over the pie.

The cheese on the Antico pie was an excellent, imported natural mozzarella di bufala and was distributed onto the pie in quantity just right to impart its creamy texture and mild flavor throughout. This type of mozzarella can’t really be grated. It’s softer, stickier and less rubbery that processed, cow’s milk mozzarella used in most American pizza establishments.

The space at this restaurant is rustic, yet contemporary and hip; very relaxed. In-house diners sit at long communal tables set with commercial paper towels, and the pizzas are brought out from the kitchen area after being transferred to well-worn baking sheets. There is only one size pie available so this makes ordering simple and, of course, I believe adds to the consistent quality. You place your order and pay at the entrance counter, so service in minimal. Once you have your pizza you’re set! There is a self-service beverage cooler with various bottled waters and sodas and openers are distributed about the tables for those who wish to bring their own beer or wine. As far as getting there, if you often take public transportation, as I do, take the MARTA (Red Line) to the Midtown, Arts Center station and then walk up to 14th Street and get a taxi going west to Hemphill Ave. The MARTA bus route running from Midtown to Hemphill was recently discontinued.

Over a decade ago, the Italian government declared Neapolitan pizza a national heritage food and accordingly set standards for the origin, ingredients and preparation for this type of pizza to be considered authentic. It was given Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC or “regulated status”). The DOC status, and corresponding product marking, has long been associated with other Italian food items, such as wine and cheese. For example, check the pink label on your next bottle of Chianti. It can be compared to American controlled designations such as “Real Wisconsin Cheese”, denoting a specific origin, ingredients and process.

An organization known as Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (www.verapizzanapoletana.org), based in Naples Italy, offers membership, training and certification to individuals and businesses interested in producing authentic Neapolitan pizza. Less than 40 pizzerias in the United States are certified by this organization. Although, Antico is not listed among their membership, they are partnered with some of the same suppliers, and the resulting pizza is certainly of the required quality.

Keep in mind; this is not your typical American, New York style thin crust pizza. This is a true Neapolitan pizza made in accordance with traditional methods. If you’ve never experienced this type of pizza, that ultimately inspired our beloved New York style pie, you are in for a treat! Antico is a “don’t miss” if you are in the Atlanta area, and speaking as a pizza enthusiast, I would actually make the drive to Atlanta just to eat here!

Enjoy!