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Thursday, August 18, 2011

Review of Buck's Pizza, Downtown Mobile, AL


Buck’s Pizza
350 Dauphin St.
Mobile, AL
(251) 431-9444

Good (**)

Oddly enough, the Dauphin Street entertainment district in downtown Mobile, Alabama, otherwise known as Lower Dauphin (LODA), has very few pizza places; however, if there’s a prime location to be had, Buck’s certainly has it, and, serves a good pizza.

Buck’s occupies a cavernous space just across from the Cathedral-Basilica of the Immaculate Conception. The location is picturesque and inviting, and although quite large inside, the space is well-arranged with seating up front and a well-appointed bar area in the rear of the space.

Well, to the pizza. Buck’s, a franchise, certainly doesn’t serve up a “cookie-cutter” version of a New York style pizza. The pies at Buck’s are substantial and the ingredients fresh. This was certainly the case with the pizza my companions and I settled on, a half cheese and pineapple and half Margarita (fresh tomato and basil) pie. In fact, the pies are probably a bit too heavy with ingredients, given the pliability of the crust.

If there is a noticeable weak link in the Buck’s pie it is the crust, specifically the bready texture and flavor. Their crust has good form with some desirable imperfections denoting it’s not machine or pre-made, and it displays some nice charring around the edges. The problem is that the bready, and somewhat flimsy, crust doesn’t stand up well under the weight of the toppings. Also, the crust has a slightly bready flavor that detracts from the other ingredients.

When it comes to cheese on any pizza, quantity and quality are the keys. Buck’s does an excellent job of balancing the quantity of cheese on their pie…enough, but not too much. Their cheese doesn’t seem to be a natural mozzarella, but it does have a nice mild flavor, no sharp edge. The cheese also displays a nice white color, as a good mozzarella should.

Buck’s sauce is mild and flavorful and really lets the taste of tomato come through. It’s not over-present on the pie, although it does get a bit lost on the bready crust. This sauce, combined with a thinner, crispier and nicely charred crust would put Buck’s pie way ahead of most franchise pizzas.

The toppings are way above average. I was particularly impressed by the freshness of the tomatoes on the pie and generous layering of fresh basil. The pies are definitely made with care.

The service at Buck’s is exceptional. The staff is efficient and friendly without being over-bearing, and the table is set with sturdy silverware and ample napkins. The space is especially well-suited and accommodating to groups.


If in LODA and craving pizza, I recommend Buck’s. What the pizza lacks in the finer points of quality is made up for with the excellent service and atmosphere.

Enjoy your pizza!