Review of Two Amys, Washington, DC

Two Amys (***1/2) ($ 1/2)
3715 Macomb St. NW
Washington, DC 20016
(202) 885-5700

I’ve spoken of Neapolitan pizza in all my previous reviews, and the reality is that most pizza bakers in the U.S., even ones we consider good, don’t prepare a true Neapolitan pie. Well, at Two Amys, located in the Cathedral Heights neighborhood of Washington, DC, you will be treated to an excellent pizza that holds very close to the true Neapolitan traditions.

About 10 years ago, the Italian government declared Neapolitan pizza a national heritage food of sorts and accordingly set standards for the origin, ingredients and preparation for this type of pizza, to be considered authentic. It was given Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC or “regulated status”). The DOC status, and corresponding product marking, has long been associated with other Italian food items, such as wine and cheese. For example, check the label on your next bottle of Chianti. It can be compared to American controlled designations such as “Real Wisconsin Cheese”, denoting a specific origin, ingredients and process.

Some of the requirements for an authentic Neapolitan pizza include the use of mozzarella di bufula (mozzarella cheese made from water buffalo or yaks’ milk); soft-grained flour, water, fresh yeast and sea salt may be used for the dough; plum tomatoes, extra-virgin olive oil; fresh or dried oregano for toppings and fresh garlic only on the pizza marinara. Neapolitan pizza must be baked in a wood burning oven at approximately 850 ° F, giving the crust its unique flatbread texture and smoky essence. Most American pizza establishments use a gas oven at around 550º F.

An organization known as Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (www.verapizzanapoletana.org), based in Naples Italy, offers membership, training and certification to individuals and businesses interested in producing authentic Neapolitan pizza. Approximately 22 pizza restaurants in the United States are certified by this organization, to include Two Amys.

So, how does Two Amys do? Well, bottom-line, they do a great job! The crust on my classic margarita pizza (tomato, basil and mozzarella di bufula) was nicely charred, revealed hints of the wood fire oven, and its very texture screamed fresh, extremely high quality ingredients. The only flaw I could detect was that the very center was a bit under-cooked and I think that was simply a judgment issue on the part of the baker on duty. This is really the only thing that brought my rating of Two Amys down from “excellent” to “very good to excellent”.

The tomatoes that, distributed about the crust were fresh, delicate and made for more of a delicate topping than sauce; no strong saucy flavor, at all! The tomatoes were complimented by fresh picked basil distributed over the pie.

The cheese is the crowning jewel of the Two Amys pie! The mozzarella di bufala was dropped onto the pie in quantity just right to impart its creamy texture and mild flavor throughout. This type of mozzarella can’t really be grated. It’s softer, stickier and less rubbery that mozzarella made from cows’ milk.

The space at this restaurant was cozy, yet contemporary and hip; very relaxed. The corresponding service was offered by friendly knowledgeable servers who were more than willing to explain the characteristics of the authentic Neapolitan pizza.

A good assortment of light antipasto was available, such as olives, bread and olive oil, as well as, a nice assortment of Italian beers, wine and sparkling water. The tables were pleasingly set with sturdy utensils and substantial napkins.

If you ready to experience Neapolitan pizza, as it is intended, then Two Amys is an excellent place to start. I must say that a few of my dining companions were a bit taken back by the pizza here, having been steeped in the Americanized, franchise versions of thin-crust pizza. But, they left believers!

Enjoy!




Note: Beginning this month, I will use the basic, thin crust, mozzarella cheese, basil and/or oregano pie (the margarita) for all reviews of establishments serving true Neapolitan style pies. The basic New York style, thin crust, Italian sausage pie will continue to be the standard for all other reviewed establishments. I believe these pies offer a good overall representation of the quality of the basic ingredients of a pie (sauce, crust, Italian sausage, cheese and herbs/seasonings). A deficiency in any of these basic elements can negatively impact the quality of the pizza.