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Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Review of Presidential Pizza, NY, NY

Presidential Pizza (**1/2) ($)
357 W. 125th St.
New York, New York
(212) 222-7744


It’s hard for a pizza lover to pass up a store-front pizza joint, especially in New York City, and I can assure you, I don’t pass up a one! Presidential Pizza, in Harlem, is a classic walk-up, mainly carry-out pizza stand. Less than a block from the historic Apollo Theater, Presidential is what every neighborhood should have, a good, to very good, basic Neapolitan pizza place.

I had heard of Presidential Pizza from other pizza devotees, and one critic, back in the Winter of 2008, rated it as the “best slice” in NYC. I’ll have to say that critic’s assessment was a bit generous. For instance, a much better basic slice can be had at Vinnie’s on Amsterdam.

On my visit to the crowded little space on 125th Street, I ordered a basic slice. This was a slight variance from my “control slice/pie”, not having the Italian sausage topping; however, the basics were there, and sometimes when you walk up to these tiny stands, you just want the basic slice…something they can serve up quickly and you can eat as you continue explore the neighborhood!

The sauce at Presidential is very good. I found it to be well balanced, not acidic or too salty. It was a smooth blend of tomato flavor and traditional spices. It blended with the other flavors and wouldn’t have stood out at all, other than the fact that the cheese was a bit skimpy. Also, the baker didn’t use too much sauce. A saucy slice can be problematic if you want to eat it while you’re walking. You should be able to double the slice over longitudinally without sauce dripping out on your hands and clothes!

The cheese on the Presidential slice was a very good quality mozzarella with a good full-bodied cheese flavor without any sour edge or excessive salty flavor. The cheese maintained a good consistency as the slice cooled, not assuming any waxy texture. There could have been more cheese on the slice; not a comment you hear from me very often, but the cheese was a bit skimpy.

The crust on this slice was a delight. A wood oven is probably the only touch that could have improved it. This crust was very thin, like we like, crispy without breaking apart in chucks and nicely browned and slightly charred in the pizzeria’s gas oven. Presidential has achieved a crust that is pliable, remember we like to fold that slice over, and crispy at the same time…a good balance.

The service was very fast and colorful in a big city sort of way, the place being staffed mainly by a seasoned crowd. The space is very tiny, with a few closely crammed tables. I don’t recommend trying to sit; just get you slice and go!
The napkins were of adequate quality and the utensils, if you need them, are sturdy plastic, all making for a pleasant experience.

If you are a lover traditional pizza stands, you should definitely seek out Presidential if you’re in the neighborhood in NYC. I wouldn’t make the trip all the way uptown just to get their slice, but if you find yourself there touring this very historic and vibrant area of Harlem, stop in for a very good, traditional carry-out experience.


Enjoy!

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