Review of Matthew's Pizza, Baltimore, MD

 

Matthew’s Pizza (***) ($)
3131 Eastern Ave.
Baltimore, Maryland
(410) 276-8755

Classic pizzeria atmosphere with a neighborhood bar in the basement! This can be found at Baltimore’s first pizzeria, Matthew’s, established in 1943. For decades, this local’s favorite has served a unique pie at its virtually unchanged location on Eastern Avenue.

I found Matthew’s to be very good, and many consider it to be the best in the City. Although serving up a unique pie, considering pizza basics, it doesn’t stand up to locations such as Pub Dog in Baltimore.

On my initial visit to Matthew’s, I ordered my standard “control pie” for Neapolitan, non-Chicago style pizza, the basic, thin crust, Italian sausage and mozzarella cheese pie. I use this pie as the standard of judgment for all pizza establishment reviews. I believe this pie offers a good overall representation of the quality of the basic ingredients of a pie (sauce, crust, cheese, herbs/seasonings and sausage). A deficiency in any of these basic elements can negatively impact the quality of the pizza.

The sauce at Matthew’s rich and not too pasty, but lacked basic blend of seasonings and was a bit on the salty side. It had, almost, a bitter edge. Although the source of the tomatoes can sometimes make a difference, I think this sauce could have benefited from more balance preparation. Herbs should be added slowly until the right balance is reached, and a bit of sugar should be slowly added in small increments until an acceptable acidity is achieved. Salt, of course, if needed at all, should be last and added cautiously. The cheese was of good quality, although it did not seem to be natural mozzarella judging by the ever so slightly stiff consistency. The sausage was the winner on this pie. It was a locally made Italian sausage that was light with just the right amount of herbs and spice. It really made the pie!

My most significant complaint with Matthew’s is not a quality deficiency, as such, but more a matter of preference. The crust, although flavorful and nicely charred on the bottom, was a bit thick and bready, thus distracting from the other ingredients by throwing off the balance of the pie. An almost biscuit-like flavor was also present. This was the case even after requesting the crust be made as thin as possible. At Matthew’s, you basically end up with good quality toppings resting on an over-powering crust.

The service at Matthew’s is very friendly, accommodating and easy going. Everyone is, quite literally, treated like family. The service was prompt; the utensils were sturdy and the napkins of good quality.

Matthew’s has a unique twist to how their pies are served. The pies are served on a heavy stock, paper plate resting on an inverted plate of the same material. The bottom plate can be used as a cover for an “instant” to-go box. The server just brings out a roll of tape and butcher paper, and wraps it up!

Although not my top choice in Baltimore, Matthew’s is very good! The atmosphere and friendly service are worth a visit! I would recommend this pizzeria anytime, especially for thick crust fans!