Review of Oz Pizza, East Point, Ga

Oz Pizza (**1/2) ($1/2)
2805 Main Street
East Point, Ga
Ph. 404-761-7006

The closest living relative of authentic Neapolitan pizza in the United States is the thin-crust, New York style pizza. These New York style pies, prepared at these hometown, neighborhood “joints” are really our stand-by. Oz Pizza, in East Point, Georgia, near the Atlanta Airport, keeps the tradition of the neighborhood pizza joint going.

For someone looking for unique quality in pizza, Oz Pizza’s combination of hometown pizza joint coziness, with a touch of urban quirkiness thrown in, gives it instant curb appeal. These type pizzerias have an instant leg up on their franchise and large-chain brethren as they are able to maintain the subtleties of pizza baking that come with obtaining ingredients in smaller quantities, as well as often having experienced pizza bakers in the kitchen as opposed to kitchen staff following the scientific kitchen methods and set recipes of the large franchises and chains.

So what about the Oz pizza? On this visit to Oz, I had an Italian sausage pizza with black olives and green peppers added. The sausage was good, not the best, as it had a slightly fatty flavor; however it was seasoned nicely. The other ingredients, although applied a bit too heavily, were fresh and cooked just enough. The overall flavor of the pie was good to very good.

The hand tossed, gas oven cooked crust is good too, and at times, very good. Some pizzerias cook in brick ovens, over wood or even coal fires, certainly taking the quality of the crust to the next level, but most, for practical reasons, use gas or electric ovens. Oz produces a variably thin, hand-tossed crust that is slightly crispy, nicely charred on the bottom, and yet pliable enough to fold over. The edges of the crust are doughy in spots, and this is undesirable because it makes the last few bites of your slice a bread stick! When ordering, I’ll often request the crust be made extra thin, asking the baker to avoid thick, doughy edges.

The sauce does not appear to be freshly made or display any significant signs of containing freshly crushed tomatoes; however, it is nicely seasoned with ample oregano and basil. A slight reduction of the salt content and addition of some form of sugar to cut the acidity of the sauce could improve the pies significantly.

The cheese on the Oz pie is good quality, processed mozzarella and is used sparingly enough not to overwhelm the general flavor of the pie or the other toppings. Keep in mind, cheese is the ingredient most often used in excess. A good pizza baker knows this and will try to balance the flavors of the pie. Oz does a very good job at achieving a nice flavor balance in its pies.

The space at this restaurant is cozy and inviting. It is not unusual to run across a Sunday afternoon Scrabble tournament going on here! The napkins and silverware are of very good quality, although you often have to ask for things like red pepper or grated cheese. The service is sometimes a bit rushed and inattentive but overall adequate. There is a good selection of beverages with the beer being somewhat pricey.

Well, if you find yourself in Atlanta and want a reliably good, to very good, New York style pizza experience, you can count on Oz Pizza!

Enjoy!

Review of Antico, Atlanta, Ga, September 2010

Antico (****) ($$)
1093 Hemphill Ave. NW
Atlanta, Ga

To find a pizzeria that prepares an authentic Neapolitan pizza, the direct ancestor of our very popular New York style pizza here in the United States, is the equivalent of any other hobbyist making that rare find. I recently discovered such a pie at Antico in midtown Atlanta, Georgia. In their “open” kitchen, the pizza bakers at Antico follow traditional preparation methods using prime ingredients, and the results are outstanding.

Some of the requirements for an authentic Neapolitan pizza include the use of mozzarella di bufula (mozzarella cheese made from water buffalo or yaks’ milk); soft-grained flour, water, fresh yeast and sea salt may be used for the dough; plum tomatoes, extra-virgin olive oil; fresh or dried oregano for toppings and fresh garlic only on the pizza marinara. Neapolitan pizza must be baked in a wood burning oven at approximately 850 ° F, giving the crust its unique flatbread texture and smoky essence. Most American pizza establishments use a gas oven at around 550º F.

Does Antico hit the mark of authentic Neapolitan pie? Absolutely! I ordered the classic margarita pizza topped with tomato, basil and mozzarella di bufula. The crust was perfectly charred, at around 900 ˚ F, revealing hints of the hardwood fire, brick oven and the hardwood smoke without any burned flavor. This is very important because in an 850˚ to 900˚ F oven, the line between nicely charred and burned can be thin, and close attention of the baker is required to produce the desired “charred” crust. The crust also displayed a hint of crispiness and yet was pliable enough to roll the slice as you eat it. I really couldn’t identify a single flaw in the Antico crust, with the possible exception of it being slightly thick on the edges, but that is strictly a matter of taste, because some like to have that thicker piece of crust left to eat with olive oil.

The hand selected, crushed plum tomatoes distributed about the crust were fresh, hand-selected and made for a more subtle topping than common pizza sauce; no strong saucy flavor, at all! The tomatoes were complimented by fresh picked, tender basil distributed over the pie.

The cheese on the Antico pie was an excellent, imported natural mozzarella di bufala and was distributed onto the pie in quantity just right to impart its creamy texture and mild flavor throughout. This type of mozzarella can’t really be grated. It’s softer, stickier and less rubbery that processed, cow’s milk mozzarella used in most American pizza establishments.

The space at this restaurant is rustic, yet contemporary and hip; very relaxed. In-house diners sit at long communal tables set with commercial paper towels, and the pizzas are brought out from the kitchen area after being transferred to well-worn baking sheets. There is only one size pie available so this makes ordering simple and, of course, I believe adds to the consistent quality. You place your order and pay at the entrance counter, so service in minimal. Once you have your pizza you’re set! There is a self-service beverage cooler with various bottled waters and sodas and openers are distributed about the tables for those who wish to bring their own beer or wine. As far as getting there, if you often take public transportation, as I do, take the MARTA (Red Line) to the Midtown, Arts Center station and then walk up to 14th Street and get a taxi going west to Hemphill Ave. The MARTA bus route running from Midtown to Hemphill was recently discontinued.

Over a decade ago, the Italian government declared Neapolitan pizza a national heritage food and accordingly set standards for the origin, ingredients and preparation for this type of pizza to be considered authentic. It was given Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC or “regulated status”). The DOC status, and corresponding product marking, has long been associated with other Italian food items, such as wine and cheese. For example, check the pink label on your next bottle of Chianti. It can be compared to American controlled designations such as “Real Wisconsin Cheese”, denoting a specific origin, ingredients and process.

An organization known as Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (www.verapizzanapoletana.org), based in Naples Italy, offers membership, training and certification to individuals and businesses interested in producing authentic Neapolitan pizza. Less than 40 pizzerias in the United States are certified by this organization. Although, Antico is not listed among their membership, they are partnered with some of the same suppliers, and the resulting pizza is certainly of the required quality.

Keep in mind; this is not your typical American, New York style thin crust pizza. This is a true Neapolitan pizza made in accordance with traditional methods. If you’ve never experienced this type of pizza, that ultimately inspired our beloved New York style pie, you are in for a treat! Antico is a “don’t miss” if you are in the Atlanta area, and speaking as a pizza enthusiast, I would actually make the drive to Atlanta just to eat here!

Enjoy!

Spacca Napoli, Chicago, IL

An excellent, authentic Neapolitan pizzeria in Chicago. One of less than forty pizza establishments in the US that prepares Neapolitan pizza according to the recipes/procedures in keeping with the standards for a National heritage food, sanctioned by the Italian governemt (DOC status)

Dog Pub, Baltimore, MD

Located in Baltimore, this small pub serves up an outstanding New York style, Neapolitan pie. They achieve what many pizza places can never seem to master...the balance between the weight of the crust and the volume of toppings. A visit here is a must!

Papa's Pizza, Daphne, AL

Papa's is simply the best pizza in the Mobile-Eastern Shore area. There basic New York style pies cannot be beat! They consistently produce an excellent New York version of the Neapolitan pizza.

Brooklyn Pizzeria, Metairie, LA

This is a very good pizzeria off Veterans Blvd, Metairie, LA. Great pie! The topping we're a bit on the heavy side, but overall a hit. An excellent crust made up some of the heavy toppings that were slightly undercooked. Worth a visit!

New York Pizza in New Orleans

This tiny place in off Magazine street in the heart of Uptown New Orleans serves up an excellent New York Style pie! The crust is exception for a gas oven, and the sauce is just right...tangy yet not too acidic!

Review of Leon Gessi New York Pizza, Colorado Springs, CO Feb 2009

Leon Gessi New York Pizza (****) ($ ½)
1806 Palmer Park Blvd.
Colorado Springs, CO 80909
(719) 635-1542

Walk into Leon Gessi’s and you’ll encounter real pizzeria atmosphere set against the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains! Upon entering, you are struck by the hometown pizzeria feel and tempting aromas from the open kitchen where the staff of Leon’s serves up an excellent New York style pie!

I visited Leon’s after a long chilly, and rainy, day at the Air Force vs. Navy football game. The space was comforting, brimming with a hometown feel, and the severs were friendly and on the spot! I was with a group of locals, so they knew their way around, and that was a good thing because I was a bit confused by the ordering protocol; whether at the counter or table.

After settling in at our table, we started out with salads and an appetizer of meatballs. The salads and meatballs were nothing special, but they kept us busy while the real treat was in the oven!

The sauce on the Gessi pie was excellent. They hit on all the good qualities of a New York sauce. It was well-balanced, with an identifiable blend of spices that didn’t conflict in the least. The sauce was smooth, as well, with no acidic or bitter background. I also admired the hint of sweetness the sauce displayed. This probably was from sugar added to cut the acidity of the tomatoes…a good trick if done skillfully.

The bakers at this pizzeria continue to score with an excellent crust. A good New York style pizza crust requires quality ingredients, patience in handling and forming, topping with care and, of course, baking at a high enough temperature to impart a somewhat crispy, brown and slightly charred character. Well, these guys do a great job in what I believe is a gas oven. The crust was approaching crispy, nicely browned with a bit of charring on the bottom, and very importantly, nicely finished on the edges. Too many bakers leave a thick, bready edge on the pie that doesn’t crisp up well. A little added attention can correct that by thinning out the edge so it takes on a firmly crisp finish. This can also add more surface area for the toppings. Wide, thick crust are often not suitable surface for the topping, effectively reducing the size of your pie.

As for cheese, no complaints here, although probably not a natural mozzarella, the cheese on the Gessi pie was very good. It was flavorful, not too salty and stayed well blended as it cooled, no oily separation. The staff at Gessi’s did an excellent job with metering that amount of cheese…you can use too much! The amount was just right!

The Italian sausage on the pie was excellent. The slight sweetness of this lightly textured and well-spiced sausage shown through the other flavors just enough, without the greasy, fatty after-taste often encountered with so-called Italian sausage.

The service at Leon Gessi’s is friendly, prompt and knowledgeable. The utensils were of good quality; however, the napkins were of low quality, and as I’ve stated before, constant reaching for another napkin is distracting, but hey, this pizza is worth a bit of reaching!

Enjoy your pizza!

Review of Ravenite Pizzeria, Fairhope, AL, Jan 2009

 

Ravenite Pizzeria (*1/2) ($)
102 N. Section Street
Fairhope, AL 36532
(251) 929-2525

I recently read a review in which the reviewer stated that the Ravenite served Brooklyn, NY quality pizza right here in LA (Lower Alabama)! Well, I’m not sure where he had been eating pizza in Brooklyn, but I found this pizzeria’s pie to be just fair quality at best.

On my recent visit to Ravenite with some friends, I entered the dimly lit, lively space really expecting a very good pizza. I ordered my typical pie for reviewing New York style pizza establishments, the basic Italian sausage and cheese pizza. I was disappointed starting with the aroma, which was dominated by the overtones of the bold sauce, and the let down was complete upon the first bite.

The cheese on the Ravenite pie was an adequate quality mozzarella, but not particularly remarkable in any aspect. I noticed it did tend to reveal an almost separated quality, as in the components of the cheese separating, as it cooled, which can sometimes produce an undesirable, stand-out flavor. This quality in cheese tends to destroy the flavor blend of the pie.

The sauce on the pie was full-bodied, simply throwing off the balance of the whole pie. The strong, somewhat acidic and salty flavor of the sauce dominated the flavor of each bite of this pizza. In fact, the strong nature of the sauce almost hid the very tomato essence it is intended to display.

Unfortunately, the crust did little to help this pie. The crust was bready, airy, somewhat thick edged and flimsy. It didn’t have the nice thin, browned and lightly charred texture and flavor a good New York crust should display. The sausage on the Ravenite was good. It was light, slightly sweet and well spiced; however, maybe a bit sparse.

The service at Ravenite is a bit “off-handed”, but courteous and professional. The establishment serves a good selection of beers and hosts live music regularly. The utensils are sturdy and the napkins of good quality; however, if it’s really good pizza you seek, keep looking; you can do better on the Eastern Shore.

Enjoy your pizza!

Follow-up Visit to Bentz's Pizza Pub...Dec 23, 2008

Made a follow-up visit to Bentz's on Tuesday. The crust was better than ever...lightly crisp, nicely browned and charred! Very Good!

Review Of Bentz's Pizza Pub, Daphne, AL

Bentz’s Pizza Pub (**1/2) ($)
28657 Co. Rd 13
Daphne, AL 36526
(251) 625-6992

In an area where there aren't many non-franchise pizzerias, Bentz’s Pizza Pub is a refreshing find. Bentz’s serves up a good thin-crust pie in a neighborhood pub atmosphere.

I confess that my first visit to Bentz’s, about a year ago, was disappointing. On that visit, I order a slice basic pepperoni pizza and found it to be rather “saucy” with a hard, but not well browned or charred crust. Well, a few weeks ago, I decided it was time to give Bentz’s another try, knowing that at some establishments, the individual slice is not the best example of pizza baker’s skill.

On this visit, my friend and I were greeted with friendly, but not overly bubbly or hovering service, in this relatively quiet, comfortable space, with a real neighborhood feel. After starting with a couple of cold beers, we ordered a whole pie, half cheese, half Canadian bacon and pineapple, and, after the first bite, I was impressed, considering that my previous experience had been rather disappointing.

The cheese on the Bentz’s pie was a very good quality, although seemingly processed to some degree, mozzarella. The cheese was mild, not overly salty or greasy and displayed a good hearty mozzarella flavor. In fact, the flavor was almost too cheesy, but remained subtle enough as the cheese cooled, as some cheeses will become apparently bolder as they cool and some of the components reconsolidate.

The sauce at Bentz’s is well blended and not overly present. It could stand a bit more oregano and basil, but that’s really a matter of taste. Bottom-line, the sauce served as adequate base for the flavors. The only real complaint I have with the sauce is that it had a slightly tomato soup-like sweet taste that was somewhat distracting; however, it was not at all acidic or too salty.

The crust was a strong point of the Bentz’s pie. I feel that only Papa’s Pizza (not to be confused with Papa John’s) in the Daphne area, makes better crust. The crust had all the basic, good characteristics, which with a little tweaking, could easily match Papa’s crust. The crust had a good neutral flavor (not bready or doughy) and was nicely browned, charred and approaching crispy. Although still a bit doughy bready in consistency, in spots, I think with a bit more working and adjustment to cooking time, the crust here would easily be as good as any in the area. As pointed out earlier, the service was prompt and pleasingly matter-of-fact. The napkins were substantial and utensils of good quality.

Overall, I would recommend Bentz’s as a good New York style pizza experiences the area, at this time. The pie could use some small refinements, but it is a good bet if you’re looking for a good basic pie in a very cozy neighborhood atmosphere. Enjoy!!!

Review of Two Amys, Washington, DC

Two Amys (***1/2) ($ 1/2)
3715 Macomb St. NW
Washington, DC 20016
(202) 885-5700

I’ve spoken of Neapolitan pizza in all my previous reviews, and the reality is that most pizza bakers in the U.S., even ones we consider good, don’t prepare a true Neapolitan pie. Well, at Two Amys, located in the Cathedral Heights neighborhood of Washington, DC, you will be treated to an excellent pizza that holds very close to the true Neapolitan traditions.

About 10 years ago, the Italian government declared Neapolitan pizza a national heritage food of sorts and accordingly set standards for the origin, ingredients and preparation for this type of pizza, to be considered authentic. It was given Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC or “regulated status”). The DOC status, and corresponding product marking, has long been associated with other Italian food items, such as wine and cheese. For example, check the label on your next bottle of Chianti. It can be compared to American controlled designations such as “Real Wisconsin Cheese”, denoting a specific origin, ingredients and process.

Some of the requirements for an authentic Neapolitan pizza include the use of mozzarella di bufula (mozzarella cheese made from water buffalo or yaks’ milk); soft-grained flour, water, fresh yeast and sea salt may be used for the dough; plum tomatoes, extra-virgin olive oil; fresh or dried oregano for toppings and fresh garlic only on the pizza marinara. Neapolitan pizza must be baked in a wood burning oven at approximately 850 ° F, giving the crust its unique flatbread texture and smoky essence. Most American pizza establishments use a gas oven at around 550º F.

An organization known as Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (www.verapizzanapoletana.org), based in Naples Italy, offers membership, training and certification to individuals and businesses interested in producing authentic Neapolitan pizza. Approximately 22 pizza restaurants in the United States are certified by this organization, to include Two Amys.

So, how does Two Amys do? Well, bottom-line, they do a great job! The crust on my classic margarita pizza (tomato, basil and mozzarella di bufula) was nicely charred, revealed hints of the wood fire oven, and its very texture screamed fresh, extremely high quality ingredients. The only flaw I could detect was that the very center was a bit under-cooked and I think that was simply a judgment issue on the part of the baker on duty. This is really the only thing that brought my rating of Two Amys down from “excellent” to “very good to excellent”.

The tomatoes that, distributed about the crust were fresh, delicate and made for more of a delicate topping than sauce; no strong saucy flavor, at all! The tomatoes were complimented by fresh picked basil distributed over the pie.

The cheese is the crowning jewel of the Two Amys pie! The mozzarella di bufala was dropped onto the pie in quantity just right to impart its creamy texture and mild flavor throughout. This type of mozzarella can’t really be grated. It’s softer, stickier and less rubbery that mozzarella made from cows’ milk.

The space at this restaurant was cozy, yet contemporary and hip; very relaxed. The corresponding service was offered by friendly knowledgeable servers who were more than willing to explain the characteristics of the authentic Neapolitan pizza.

A good assortment of light antipasto was available, such as olives, bread and olive oil, as well as, a nice assortment of Italian beers, wine and sparkling water. The tables were pleasingly set with sturdy utensils and substantial napkins.

If you ready to experience Neapolitan pizza, as it is intended, then Two Amys is an excellent place to start. I must say that a few of my dining companions were a bit taken back by the pizza here, having been steeped in the Americanized, franchise versions of thin-crust pizza. But, they left believers!

Enjoy!




Note: Beginning this month, I will use the basic, thin crust, mozzarella cheese, basil and/or oregano pie (the margarita) for all reviews of establishments serving true Neapolitan style pies. The basic New York style, thin crust, Italian sausage pie will continue to be the standard for all other reviewed establishments. I believe these pies offer a good overall representation of the quality of the basic ingredients of a pie (sauce, crust, Italian sausage, cheese and herbs/seasonings). A deficiency in any of these basic elements can negatively impact the quality of the pizza.

Review of Presidential Pizza, NY, NY

Presidential Pizza (**1/2) ($)

357 W. 125th St.
New York, New York
(212) 222-7744


It’s hard for a pizza lover to pass up a store-front pizza joint, especially in New York City, and I can assure you, I don’t pass up a one! Presidential Pizza, in Harlem, is a classic walk-up, mainly carry-out pizza stand. Less than a block from the historic Apollo Theater, Presidential is what every neighborhood should have, a good, to very good, basic Neapolitan pizza place.

I had heard of Presidential Pizza from other pizza devotees, and one critic, back in the Winter of 2008, rated it as the “best slice” in NYC. I’ll have to say that critic’s assessment was a bit generous. For instance, a much better basic slice can be had at Vinnie’s on Amsterdam.

On my visit to the crowded little space on 125th Street, I ordered a basic slice. This was a slight variance from my “control slice/pie”, not having the Italian sausage topping; however, the basics were there, and sometimes when you walk up to these tiny stands, you just want the basic slice…something they can serve up quickly and you can eat as you continue explore the neighborhood!

The sauce at Presidential is very good. I found it to be well balanced, not acidic or too salty. It was a smooth blend of tomato flavor and traditional spices. It blended with the other flavors and wouldn’t have stood out at all, other than the fact that the cheese was a bit skimpy. Also, the baker didn’t use too much sauce. A saucy slice can be problematic if you want to eat it while you’re walking. You should be able to double the slice over longitudinally without sauce dripping out on your hands and clothes!

The cheese on the Presidential slice was a very good quality mozzarella with a good full-bodied cheese flavor without any sour edge or excessive salty flavor. The cheese maintained a good consistency as the slice cooled, not assuming any waxy texture. There could have been more cheese on the slice; not a comment you hear from me very often, but the cheese was a bit skimpy.

The crust on this slice was a delight. A wood oven is probably the only touch that could have improved it. This crust was very thin, like we like, crispy without breaking apart in chucks and nicely browned and slightly charred in the pizzeria’s gas oven. Presidential has achieved a crust that is pliable, remember we like to fold that slice over, and crispy at the same time…a good balance.

The service was very fast and colorful in a big city sort of way, the place being staffed mainly by a seasoned crowd. The space is very tiny, with a few closely crammed tables. I don’t recommend trying to sit; just get you slice and go!
The napkins were of adequate quality and the utensils, if you need them, are sturdy plastic, all making for a pleasant experience.

If you are a lover traditional pizza stands, you should definitely seek out Presidential if you’re in the neighborhood in NYC. I wouldn’t make the trip all the way uptown just to get their slice, but if you find yourself there touring this very historic and vibrant area of Harlem, stop in for a very good, traditional carry-out experience.


Enjoy!

Review of SLICE Pizzeria, New Orleans, LA,

SLICE Pizzeria (****) ($ 1/2)
1513 Saint Charles Ave.
New Orleans, Louisiana
(504) 525-7437

Every now and then, as a pizza lover, you might pass a place that has such curb appeal that you make a u-turn, park semi-illegally and dash right in! Well, that’s exactly the response SLICE Pizzeria elicited from me, as I drove down St. Charles Avenue on a balmy Gulf Coast afternoon.

SLICE Pizzeria is nothing less than excellent. At least one local event paper has recently listed it as one of the top three pizzerias in New Orleans. Well, I eaten at all three of those ranked, and I’ll have to say SLICE certainly deserves that ranking. In fact, their only real competition, at this time, is New York Pizza (not ranked) and Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza (ranked among the three), both on Magazine Street.

When I visited SLICE, I ordered my standard “control pie or slice” for Neapolitan pizza, the basic, thin crust, Italian sausage and mozzarella cheese pie/slice, and the Mesclun salad. I won’t discuss the salad except to say that this light, extremely fresh salad, made with delicate organic greens is phenomenal.

The sauce at SLICE is best described as delicate with a hint of fresh tomato and subtle spices. I noticed that the sauce was neither too salty nor acidic, both common pizza sauce pitfalls. Virtually every basic pizza ingredient contains some salt, therefore there’s a fine line, not to be crossed, when adding salt to a basic sauce. I don’t have to tell you how an overly salty sauce can mask all the other flavors of a pie.

Now, at the risk of raising the eyebrows of you cheese lovers, cheese can be over-present on a pizza, and depending on the type of mozzarella used, can add a variety of undesirable characteristics ranging from textural problems to an overpowering cheese flavor often found in pies from “scientific kitchens” (your local pizza franchises and some chains) that tend to use more highly processed and stabilized cheeses. Even pizza joints that use natural or near-natural mozzarella can over apply the cheese and negatively affect the balance and texture of the pie. The cheese at SLICE was of excellent quality. Although not a truly natural mozzarella, best made with water buffalo milk, the cheese had a delicate flavor, consistency and was adequately interspersed among the ingredients, contributing to the balanced flavor.

The sausage on my slice was a mild, link Italian sausage. The sausage was thinly sliced, but not so thin as to dry out, and added just the right amount of sausage flavor to the slice without any grease residue taste or standout spices.

I did find one ever so slight flaw with the slice, at SLICE…the very back edge of the crust. Now, this could have been a procedural error or oversight on the park of the baker, but the back edge was just slightly thick and wide, adding just a hint of that bready taste as opposed to the crispy and lightly charred taste a Neapolitan crust should have. This could have been easily fixed by simply removing some dough and throwing that edge out thinner. The crust, in every other aspect was as good as it could have been, having baked in a commercial gas oven. It was thin, slightly crisp and charred, and a platform, not an overly-present flavor. We know that a coal or wood fire oven will put a crust over the top.

The service was very professional and easy going, the place being staffed mainly by a younger, hip crowd. Once you are seated, drink service is immediate and the staff is very patient and willing to answer questions about the day’s offerings and, of course, the pizza! The napkins were of good quality and the utensils sturdy, all making for a very pleasant experience.

If you are a true pizza lover, you should definitely seek out SLICE when in New Orleans. Here, you will enjoy one of the best pizza experiences the Crescent City has to offer.


Enjoy!

Review of Matthew's Pizza, Baltimore, MD

 

Matthew’s Pizza (***) ($)
3131 Eastern Ave.
Baltimore, Maryland
(410) 276-8755

Classic pizzeria atmosphere with a neighborhood bar in the basement! This can be found at Baltimore’s first pizzeria, Matthew’s, established in 1943. For decades, this local’s favorite has served a unique pie at its virtually unchanged location on Eastern Avenue.

I found Matthew’s to be very good, and many consider it to be the best in the City. Although serving up a unique pie, considering pizza basics, it doesn’t stand up to locations such as Pub Dog in Baltimore.

On my initial visit to Matthew’s, I ordered my standard “control pie” for Neapolitan, non-Chicago style pizza, the basic, thin crust, Italian sausage and mozzarella cheese pie. I use this pie as the standard of judgment for all pizza establishment reviews. I believe this pie offers a good overall representation of the quality of the basic ingredients of a pie (sauce, crust, cheese, herbs/seasonings and sausage). A deficiency in any of these basic elements can negatively impact the quality of the pizza.

The sauce at Matthew’s rich and not too pasty, but lacked basic blend of seasonings and was a bit on the salty side. It had, almost, a bitter edge. Although the source of the tomatoes can sometimes make a difference, I think this sauce could have benefited from more balance preparation. Herbs should be added slowly until the right balance is reached, and a bit of sugar should be slowly added in small increments until an acceptable acidity is achieved. Salt, of course, if needed at all, should be last and added cautiously. The cheese was of good quality, although it did not seem to be natural mozzarella judging by the ever so slightly stiff consistency. The sausage was the winner on this pie. It was a locally made Italian sausage that was light with just the right amount of herbs and spice. It really made the pie!

My most significant complaint with Matthew’s is not a quality deficiency, as such, but more a matter of preference. The crust, although flavorful and nicely charred on the bottom, was a bit thick and bready, thus distracting from the other ingredients by throwing off the balance of the pie. An almost biscuit-like flavor was also present. This was the case even after requesting the crust be made as thin as possible. At Matthew’s, you basically end up with good quality toppings resting on an over-powering crust.

The service at Matthew’s is very friendly, accommodating and easy going. Everyone is, quite literally, treated like family. The service was prompt; the utensils were sturdy and the napkins of good quality.

Matthew’s has a unique twist to how their pies are served. The pies are served on a heavy stock, paper plate resting on an inverted plate of the same material. The bottom plate can be used as a cover for an “instant” to-go box. The server just brings out a roll of tape and butcher paper, and wraps it up!

Although not my top choice in Baltimore, Matthew’s is very good! The atmosphere and friendly service are worth a visit! I would recommend this pizzeria anytime, especially for thick crust fans!